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ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


FOR  SCHOOLS 


David  M.  Mitchell 

Instruclor  Manual  Arts 
Wilhon  Junior  High  School,  Cleveland,  Ohio 


The  Manual  Arts  Press 

Peoria,  Illinois 


Copyright  1922 

David  M.  Mitchell 

12B22 


Printed  in  United  States  of  America 


PREFACE 


|OYS  are  today  regarded  as  educa- 
lional  factors  in  the  life  of  boys  and 
girls.  New  toj's  come  into  demand 
at.  frequent  intervals  in  the  growth 
and  mental  development  of  the  child.  On  ac- 
count of  the  unfailing  interest  on  the  part  of 
the  pupils  in  toys  and  because  of  the  unlimited 
educational  possibiUties  contained  in  toy  mak- 
ing, this  work  is  rightfully  taking  an  increas- 
ingly important  place  in  the  manual  arts 
program  in  the  schools. 

This  book  is  the  outgrowth  of  toy-making 
problems  given  to  junior-high  and  high-school 
pupils.  The  author  claims  no  originahty  for 
some  of  the  toys.  However,  most  of  them 
have  been  originated  or  improved  upon  in  the 
author's  classes. 

While  it  is  entirely  satisfactory  to  have  anj' 
of  the  toys  mentioned  in  this  book  made  as 
individual  projects,  they  are  here  offered  as 
suitable  group  projects  or  production  projects, 
and  it  is  hoped  that  the  suggested  form  of  shop 
organization  for  production  work  as  treated  in 


Part  1  is  flexible  enough  so  that  the  plan  can 
be  applied  to  most  any  shop  conditions. 

The  drawings  of  toys  in  Part  II  will  suggest 
a  variety  of  articles  which  may  be  used  in 
carrying  out  the  production  work. 

Of  course,  the  success  of  organizing  and  con- 
ductuig  classes  for  this  kind  of  work  depends 
largely  upon  the  instructor.  He  must  know 
definitely  what  he  is  tiying  to  get  done.  He 
must  adopt  and  pursue  such  methods  of 
deaUng  with  both  the  niombers  of  the  class  and 
the  material  as  will  contribute  directly  towards 
the  desired  end. 

Toy  making  carried  on  by  the  so-called  pro- 
ductive plan,  if  handled  properly,  will  bring 
out  many  of  the  essentials  of  an  organization 
typical  of  the  commercial  industries.  Together 
with  its  educational  possibilities  and  its  power 
to  attract  the  attention  of  those  engaged  in 
this  activity,  toy  making  will  rightfully  take 
its  place  alongside  other  important  subjects 
offered  in  a  complete  industrial  arts  course. 

The    author    wishes    to    acknowledge    his 


20^6016 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKINC 


indebtedness  to  William  E.  Roberts,  supervisor 
of  manual  training,  Cleveland  Public  Schools, 
for  valuable  suggestions  and  inspiration;  to 
Joseph  A.  Shelley,  Jersey  City,  N.  J.,  for  sugges- 
tions on  finishing  kiddie  car  wheels;  to  the 
Eclipse  Air  Brush  Company,  Newark,  N.  J.,  for 


valuable  information  and  photographs  of  air 
brush  etjuipment;  and  to  the  American  Wood 
Working  Machinery  Co.,  for  the  use  of  the 
illustrations  showing  the  operation  of  the  turn- 
ing lathe,  universal  saw,  and  other  wood- 
working machines. 


Cleveland,  Ohio,  1921. 


D.  M.  Mitchell 


CONTENTS 


PART  I 


Operations  in  Toy  Making 


Chapter  I.    Productive  Work. 


1.  Suggested  plan  for  shop  organization.  2. 
Grouping  of  students.  3.  The  time  clerk  and  tool- 
room clerk.  4.  Recording  attendance.  5.  Time 
cards.  6.  Using  time  card.  7.  Grading  students. 
8.  Preliminary  discussion  and  preparation  for  shop- 
work.    9.  Bazaars,  toy  sales,  etc. 

Chapter  II.    Coloring  Toys 


10.  Sanitation  emphasized.  II.  Preparation  of 
surfaces.  12.  AppUcation  of  water  colors.  13. 
Analine  water  stains.  14.  Formulas  for  analine 
water  stains.  15.  Oil  stains.  16.  Shellacking.  17. 
Varnishing.  18.  Points  on  Varnishing.  19.  Col- 
ored varnish.  20.  Another  suggestion  for  finishing. 
21.  Use  ot  paint.  22.  Ingredients  of  good  paint. 
23.  Application  of  paint.  24.  Preparation  of  sur- 
face. 25.  Tinting  materials.  26.  Mi.xing  paints. 
27.  Paint  formulas.  28.  Formulas  for  making 
tinted  paint.  29.  Enameling.  30.  The  dipping 
method.  31.  PoUshing  by  tumbling.  32.  Care  of 
brushes.  33.  Paint  application  by  means  of  com- 
pressed air.  34.  Uses  of  pneumatic  sprayers.  35. 
Construction  of  pneumatic  painting  outfit.  36. 
Special  attachments  for  different  surfaces.  37. 
Cleaning  pneumatic  machines.     38.  Directions  for 


11  cleaning   machine.     39.  Direction.s   for  operating 

pneumatic  equipment.    40.  Preparing  colors. 

Chapter  III.    Common  Woods  Used  in 
Toy  Making 

41.  Economy  in  selecting  material.    42.  Qualities 
of  different  woods  used. 


Chapter  V.    Operation  op  Woodwork- 
ing Machines 


54.  Importance  of  machine  operations.  55.  Opera- 
ating  the  lathe.  56.  Face  plate  turning.  57.  The 
universal  saw.  58.  The  hand  jointer.  59.  The 
Sander. 


42 


Chapter  IV.    Use  of  Jigs  and  Fixtures       43 

43.  Value  of  jigs  and  fixtures.  44.  Cutting  small 
wheels.  45.  Turning  wheels.  46.  Use  of  wheel 
cutter.  47.  Use  of  coping  saw.  48.  Cutting 
sharp  corners.  49.  Removing  the  saw-blade 
from  frame.  50.  Making  heavy  wheels.  51.  De- 
signs for  wheels.  62.  Cutting  wheels  on  band-saw. 
53.  Boring  holes  in  wheels. 


54 


1 .  Fox  and  Geese  Game 

2.  Ring  Toss 

3.  Baby's  Cart 

4.  Hay  Cart 

5.  Horse  Head 

6.  Horse  on  Wheels 

7.  KJdo  Kar  Trailer 

S.  Auto  Roadster 

9.  Auto  Racer 

10.  Passenger  Car 

11.  Milk  Wagon 

12.  Table  for  Doll  House 

13.  Chair  and  Rocker 

14.  Buffet 

15.  Toy  Wheel-Barrow 

16.  Horse  Barrow 

17.  Doll's  Carriage 

18.  Noah's  Ark 

19.  "Bean  Bag"  Game  Board . 

20.  Child's  Swing  No.  1 

21.  Child's  Swing  No.  2 

22.  Doll's  Bed,  No.  1 

23.  Doll's  Bed,  No.  2 

24.  Adjustable  Stilts 

25.  Scooter 

26.  Steering  Coaster 

27.  KidoKar 


PART  II 

Drawincs  for  Toys 

I'A(ili 

PAGE 

91 

65 

"    29.  Pony  Kar 

"    30.   Duplex  Speedster 
"    31.  Rock-a-Doodle    . 

"    32.  Sled 

"   33.  "Sturdy  Flyer"  Sled... 

...       92 

66 

.  .       93 

67 

.  .       94 

68 

...       95 

96 

70 

....       97 

71 

"    35    Duck  Rocker 

....       72 

...       99 

73 

"    37.  Junior  Road.ster 

"    38.  Details  of  Junior  Roadster 

....      100 

74 

101 

75 

102 

103 

77 

"    41.  Auto-Kar 

104 

7S 

"   42    Choo-Choo-Kar 

105 

106 

80 

"    44    Teeter  Rocker 

107 

SI 

"    45    Checker  Board 

108 

82 

"    46.  Child's  Costumer 

"   47.  Baby's  Chair 

"    48    Children's  Sand  Box 

109 

83 

110 

84 

111 

112 

86 

"    50.  Doll's  House  No.  1 

"    51.  Doll's  House  No.  2 

"    52.  Doll's  House  No.  2 

"    53.  Dumb  Bell  &  Indian  Club 

"    54.  Bats 

113 

87 

114 

88 

115 

89 

116 

90 

117 

SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


Where  the  work  is  to  bo  done  on  the  so-culled 
productive  basis,  it  is  of  utmost  importance 
tliat,  before  starting,  the  classes  should  be  so 
organized  as  to  allow  the  work  to  be  carried 
on  in  the  most  efficient,  progressive  manner. 
The  fomi  of  shop  organization  suggested  in  this 
book  is  reconmiended.  However,  the  instnictor 
may,  particularly  if  he  has  had  good  pi-actical 
shop  experience,  employ  other  methods  of 
organization  that  are  just  as  good  and  p()ssi])ly 
even  better  for  his  particular  class  and  the 
conditions  under  which  he  has  to  work. 

It  is  also  of  great  importance  that  tlie 
insti-uctor  should  acquaint  hhnself  with  the 
processes  involved  in  the  making  of  each  toy 
before  allowing  the  class  to  begin  it.  This  may 
be  accomplished  by  the  making  of  a  sample  of 
the  contemplated  project,  carefully  analyzing 
its  different  parts  and  arranging  the  operations 
in  a  logical  sequence.  This  phase  of  the  work, 
may  be  done  during  class  discussions  and 
demonstrations  at  which  time  the  different  j  igs 
and  fixtures  needed  for  progressive  production 
may  also  be  developed. 


Tlie  different,  methods  of  coloring  toys  have 
been  suggested  with  the  hope  that  tlie  student 
will  gain  a  reafization  of  the  importance  of 
finisluTig,  from  both  the  artistic  and  the  practi- 
cal point  of  A-iew.  The  application  of  paint  by 
means  of  compressed  air  is  the  latest  develop- 
ment in  the  coloring  of  toys,  and  an  equipment 
in  the  school  shop  illustrating  the  principles  of 
compressed  air  as  applied  to  productive  finish- 
ing of  toys,  is  a  step  forward  in  making  school 
sho]:)s  function  as  they  should. 

The  working  drawings  in  this  book  should 
ser\e  as  suggestions.  They  ha\'e  been  so  con- 
structed as  to  be  free  from  unnecessaiy  techni- 
calities, and  to  leave  as  much  opportunity  as 
possible  for  the  exercise  and  development  of  the 
student's  judgment. 

It  will  be  found  that  toy  making  offers  itself 
readily  to  the  desired  co-operation  and  correla- 
tion with  other  departments  in  the  school.  For 
instance,  the  art  department  may  aid  with  the 
designing  and  color  scheme  to  be  used  on  toj^s ; 
the  general  metal  shop  may  help  in  the  making 
of    necessary    metal    parts;    the    mechanical 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKlNCi 


drawing  department  can  co-operate  in  the  mak- 
ing of  working  drawings;  the  mathematics 
department  can  figure  the  costs  of  production, 
etc.,  etc. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  purpose  of  this  book  is 
not  merely  to  set  forth  a  few  plans  and  draw- 


ings for  the  construction  of  toys,  but  to  give 
the  work  the  broadest  possible  application; 
creating  a  constructive  influence  on  the  minds 
of  the  students,  in  which  case  it  will  also  act  as 
a  means  of  bringing  into  closer  relationship  their 
life  outside  of  school  with  the  work  in  school. 


roY  Making  on  a  Productive  Basis  Employing  Factory  Methods 


BART  I 

Operations  in  Toy  Making 


CHAPTER  I 
Productive  Work 


1.     Suggested    Plan    for    Shop    Organization. — 

While  it  is  entirely  satisfactory  to  ha^e  any  of 
the  toys  mentioned  in  this  book  made  as 
individual  projects,  they  are  here  offered  as 
suitable  group  projects  or  production  projects. 
Production  work  may  be  defined  as  work  done 
by  a  class  to  turn  out  a  number  of  similar  pro- 
jects that  have  a  marketable  value,  with  the 
aid  of  jigs,  fixtures,  and  other  means  of  duplica- 
tion, illustrating  the  industrial  or  practical 
appUcation  to  the  tasks  in  hand,  Figs.  1,  2,  and 
3.  This  does  not  mean,  however,  that  the 
school  shops  be  transformed  into  a  factoiy  in 
the  full  sense  of  the  word.  It  should  differ  from 
a  factory  in  that  the  education  of  the  student  is 
the  major  part  of  the  product,  while  in  the 
factory  production  is  the  foremost  aim. 


In  doing  woi-k  by  the  producti\-e  plan  two 
important  problems  will  present  themselves  at 
the  outset;  first,  tlie  time  element;  and  second, 
industrial  or  practical  application  to  the  tasks  in 
hand. 

A  brief  explanation  of  the  plan  of  organization 
in  one  of  the  author's  classes  will  attempt  to 
show  how  nearly  these  problems  can  be  solved. 

2.  Grouping  of  Students.— Classes  are  divided 
into  groups  of  between  four  and  six  boys,  with 
a  boy  foreman  appointed  at  the  head  of  each 
group.  The  foreman  is  held  responsible  for  the 
work  turned  out  by  his  boys.  He  is  to  see  that 
they  understand  just  what  is  to  be  done  and 
how  it  is  to  be  done.  All  the  group  foremen  are 
directly  responsible  to  the  general  foreman  who 
in  turn  is  responsible  to  the  instructor.     The 


ADVANXED  TOT  MAKING 


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Fig.  1.    Material  for  toys,  prepared  on  a  large  scale 


general  foreman  is  to  act  as  an  inspector  of 
finished  work  after  it  has  received  the  group 
foreman's  O.  K.  He  is  also  held  responsible  for 
the  condition  of  the  shop  during  his  class  hour. 


This  includes  looking  after  aU  material,  the 
manner  in  which  stock  is  put  away  after  class, 
and  adherence  to  aU  shop  rules  that  have  been 
adopted  tohelp  in  the  efficiency  of  shop  procedure. 


PRODUCTIVE  WORK 


13 


Fig.  2.    A  large  order  of  toys  partly  constructed 


3.    The  Time   Clerk  and  Tool-Room    Clerk.— 

A  "Time  Clerk"  is  appointed  to  take  charge  of 
the  time  cards.  He  is  also  held  responsible  for 
all  the  clerical  work  that  is  to  be  done  in  the 
shop. 

A  Tool-Room  Clerk  is  appointed  to  take  charge 
of  the  shop  tool  room.    He  is  to  keep  check  of 


all  tools  given  out  and  taken  in.     His  spare 
time  should  be  devoted  to  the  care  of  tools. 

If  possible,  each  boy  in  the  class  should  be 
given  an  opportunity  to  act  in  each  capacity 
that  has  been  created,  so  that  he  vaay  get  the 
most  varied  experience  in  shop  procedure.  This 
\^'ill  necessitate  the  changing  of  boys  from  one 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


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Fig.  3.     Milk  wasons, ■(,1,11  i 

group  to  another;  the  changing  of  foremen, 
clerks,  etc.,  at  intervals  which  will  of  course  be 
governed  by  the  size  of  the  class  and  the  num- 
ber of  hours  devoted  to  the  work. 

4.  Recording  Attendance. — Boys,  upon  enter- 
ing the  shop,  register  their  presence  at  the 
Time-Card  Rack,  Fig.  4.  This  is  done  by 
turning  the  time  card  shown  in  Fig.  5,  so  that 


the  back  side,  which  has  the  word  present 
printed  at  top,  is  exposed.  The  time  clerk  then 
inspects  the  cards  and  notes  those  that  have 
not  been  turned,  and  records  the  absences.  He 
then  fills  in  the  date  and  passes  the  cards  out 
to  the  boys  in  the  shop.  Toward  the  latter  part 
of  the  period,  a  few  minutes  time  is  given  the 
boys  to  fill  in  the  necessary  data  on  the  time  card. 


'UODUCTIVE  WORK 


15 


The  time  cards  are  tlien  eoUccled  l)y  tlie  time 
clerk  and  put  into  a  box  where  the  time  cards 
of  all  the  classes  are  kept.  In  the  meantime 
the  time  clei-k  puts  back  into  the  time  rack 
the  cards  of  the  incoming  class.  This  duty  is 
performed  by  the  time  clerks  of  all  the  classes, 
thereby  necessitating  the  use  of  only  one  time 
card  rack. 

5.  Time  Cards. — Referring  to  the  time  card 
mentioned  in  Fig.  5  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
workman's  shop  number  is  filled  in  at  the  top. 
Then  under  the  heading  of  "Woodworking 
Department"  are  two  horizontal  rows  of  items 
which  need  very  httle  explanation.  Following 
are  three  columns  headed  "Operation,"  "As- 
signment," and  "Time."  Below  the  word 
"Operation"  are  set  down  the  various  opera- 
tions undertaken  in  the  woodworking  depart- 
ment, with  several  vacant  spaces  provided 
where  other  and  special  operations  can  be  filled 
in.  It  will  also  be  noticed  that  "Operations" 
are  divided  into  two  kinds,  machine  work  and 
bench  work.  The  instructor's  glance  at  the  time 
card  will  tell  him  at  once  what  phase  of  the 
work  the  boy  has  been  employed  in  and  will 


Fig.  4.    The  time-card  rack. 

help  him  in  apportioning  the  work  so  that  the 
boy  is  offered  a  varied  experience. 


16 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


6.  Using  Time  Card. — For  shops  that  are  not 
equipped  with  the  kind  of  machines  marked  on 
the  illustrated  card,  it  would  be  well  to  omit 
the  names  of  machines  in  thf^  "operation" 
column.  The  instructor  may  then  fill  in  the 
operation  whatever  it  may  be. 

Under  the  heading  "Assigmnent"  and  against 
the  operation  which  is  to  be  undertaken  by  the 
student,  the  instructor  writes  in  the  name  of  the 
part  to  be  made.  This  is  the  student's  assign- 
ment and  it  should  be  read  by  him  at  the  time 
he  records  his  presence  at  the  time-card  rack 
upon  entering  the  shop. 

In  making  assignments,  the  instructor  may 
find  it  rather  difficult  to  keep  up  with  large 
classes  of  boys.  This  difficulty  may  be  over- 
come by  making  an  assignment  to  an  entire 
group  instead  of  to  each  boy.  For  example,  in  a 
class  of  twenty-five  that  would  probably  be 
divided  into  five  groups,  the  instructor  may 
make  the  assignment  to  the  foreman  of  each 
group  and  each  foreman  in  turn  can  inform  the 
boys  of  his  group  as  to  the  nature  of  the  assign- 
ment. The  boys  can  then  enter  the  assignment 
on  their  time  cards  at  the  end  of  the  period 
when  the  time  spent  on  the  job   at  hand   is 


also  recorded. 

The  student's  shop  number,  name,  and  grade 
should  be  filled  in  by  the  time  clerk  who  can 
get  out  a  number  of  cards  for  each  student  in 
advance  and  these  are  kept  ready  for  use  by  the 
instructor.  The  instructor  can  then  mark  the 
project  and  the  job  number  together  with  the 
student's  assignment.  At  the  same  time  he 
estimates  the  journeyman's  time  and  rate  and 
enters  them  in  the  space  provided. 

The  time  cai-d  in  Fig.  5,  is  33/2  inches  by  9 
inches,  made  of  three-ply  bristol  board.  All 
worker's  cards  are  printed  on  white  colored 
bristol  while  those  of  the  foremen  are  of  blue 
colored  bristol.  This  plan  is  for  the  instructor's 
convenience  to  be  able  to  pick  out  the  foremen's 
time  cards  at  a  glance. 

In  the  triple  colunm  under  the  heading 
"TIME"  is  provided  room  for  the  date  and 
spaces  in  which  the  student  can  write  the  time 
in  minutes  spent  on  the  various  operations  on 
that  date.  The  triple  columns  on  each  side  of 
the  card  allow  of  the  cards  being  used  for  six 
days.  If  a  job  lasts  longer  than  six  days  anothei- 
card  should  be  used  marking  them  No.  1  and 


No.  2,  respectively,  in  the  space  marked  "('aid 

No."    Both  cards  should  be  fastened  and  kej)!  No. 

together. 

Effort  should  always  be  made  to  ha\e  all  the 
assignments  short  (less  than  six  days)  so  that 
the  student's  record  may  be  computed  at  the 
end  of  each  week  by  the  time  clerk. 

7.  Grading  Students. — The  next  four  spaces 
contain  in  condensed  form,  the  information 
itemized  in  other  parts  of  the  card.  This, 
together  with  other  infoi-mation  set  down  by 
the  instructor,  is  the  vital  material  sought  for. 

The  item  A  "Journeyman's  Time"  is  very 
easily  recorded  by  the  instructor.  It  is  arrived 
at  in  the  same  way  as  in  making  out  the  estimate 
for  any  piece  of  work  and  can  be  recorded  almost 
at  once.  The  main  purpose  here  is  to  set  for 
the  student  a  standard  of  time  on  which  to 
work. 

The  item  B  is  the  rate  in  points  jx'r  hour, 
based  on  the  journeyman's  time. 

The  item  C  is  the  total  of  the  student's  time 
added  together  from  the  various  spaces  iindcr 
"Time." 

Item  D  "Quahty  Decimal"  is  the  quality  of 
the  student's  job  expressed  in  the  form  of  a 


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No.  8 

Woodworking  Dopartmenl 
/,/a    T'X'S     \<)b-z 


18 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


decimal,  with  100%  as  the  maximum.  This 
mark  should  be  filled  in  by  the  instructor  when 
the  student  completes  his  job. 

The  next  item,  the  number  of  points  the 
student  earns  is  found  by  the  formula  Points 
=  (AxB)D 

Points  earned  per  hour  =  (A  XB)D 
C 

For  example,  a  student  receives  an  assign- 
ment to  cut  to  thickness,  width,  and  length, 
sixty  chair  legs.  The  size  of  the  legs  he  is  to 
get  from  the  job  blueprint.  He  spends  60 
minutes  a  day,  for  three  days,  making  a  total 
of  180  minutes  or  3  hours.  The  time  it  would 
take  a  journeyman  to  do  the  same  job  is 
estimated  at  2  hours.  The  rate  adopted  is  at 
80  points  per  hour;  the  journeyman  therefore 
earns  A  xB  =  2  X80  =  160  Points.  The  quahty  of 
the  student's  job  is  graded  by  the  instructor  as 
75%.  The  number  of  points  the  student  earns 
is  found  by  the  formula  Points  =  (Ax B)D  = 
(2x80). 75  =  120  Points.  To  find  the  number  of 
points  the  student  earns  per  hour,  divide  120 
points  by  the  number  of  hours  it  took  the 
student  to  complete  the  job,  which  equals 
120-i-3=40,    the   number   of    points  the   stu- 


dent earns  per  hour.    However,  if  the  student 
would  be  graded   100%.    he  would   earn  the 


Woodworking  Department 
Mootbly  ioooopllstoent  Recoril 

...             |.,...|     „. 

Date 

Asolannent                 >olnt]>  | 

Point,  for  previous  .o„t 

,. 

Fig.  6,     Monthly  accomplishment  sheet 

same  number  of  points  as  the  journeyman. 
But  of  course,  he  would  have  done  it  in 
three  hours  where  the  journeyman  has  earned 


I 


PKODUCTIVE  WOllK 


19 


the  siime  number  of  j)()ints  in  two  hours.  It  will 
readily  be  seen  that  this  scheme  offers  the 
student  an  everlasting  incentive  to  equal  the 
journeyman's  record. 

Ha\ing  obtained  the  points  on  the  time  card 
or  assigmnent  card  as  it  may  be  called,  these 
are  then  transferred  to  a  monthly  accomplish- 
ment sheet  as  shown  in  Fig.  6,  which  is  provided 
for  all  the  students  in  all  classes. 

The  total  number  of  points  for  each  boy, 
group,  and  class  can  then  be  easily  obtained. 
These  totals  can  be  put  up  in  poster  form 
and  hung  on  the  shop's  bulletin  board,  showing 
the  standing  of  each  boy,  group,  and  class. 
It  is  surprising  the  amount  of  interest  and  com- 
petition that  can  be  aroused;  everyone  working 
f(5r  the  highest  honoi's,  unconsciously,  with  a 
competitive  spirit  that  will  bring  out  consider- 
able thought  and  effort  to  the  matter  of  hand- 
ling material  for  maximum  production. 

8.  Preliminary  Discussion  and  Preparation  for 
Shopwork. — Of  course,  no  time  card  or  assign- 
ment-record scheme  can  hope  entirely  to  elim- 
inate the  necessary  prehminary  discussions  and 
preparation.  The  author  has  found  it  of 
material  help  to  meet  the  foremen  of  all  the 


classes  at  hours  other  than  their  regular  class 
hour  and  discuss  such  topics  as  "Securing 
Cooperation,"  "Instructing  Workers,"  "Main- 
taining CleanUness  and  Order,"  "Records  and 
Reports,"  "Inspecting  Work,"  "Routing  ]Ma- 
terial  Thru  Shop,"  "Care  of  Stock,"  etc. 

Details  regarding  construction  and  assem- 
bhng  should  be  worked  out  by  the  instructor 
beforehand,  and  also  developed  with  the  class 
as  the  work  progresses.  Care  should  be  taken 
that  plans  are  carefully  made  regarding  the 
storage  of  stock  and  unfinished  parts. 

The  old  saying,  "An  ounce  of  prevention  is 
worth  a  pound  of  cure,"  is  an  old  one,  but  a 
good  one. 

9.  Bazaars,  Toy  Sales,  Etc. — The  plan  of  sell- 
ing toys,  that  are  made  in  the  school  shop,  to 
the  boys  and  girls  of  the  school  is  a  plausible 
one.  It  can  very  easily  be  accomplished  in  the 
form  of  bazaars,  exhibitions,  or  school  toy  sales. 

The  writer  has  had  a  number  of  samples  of 
different  toys  made  and  put  on  exhibition, 
and  orders  taken,  requiring  a  deposit  on  each 
order.  These  were  then  turned  in  to  the  shop 
department  and  the  toys  made  on  the  produc- 
tive plan. 


20 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


The  boys  in  the  shop  would  receive  school 
checks,  Fig.  7,  for  the  total  number  of  points  that 
they  earned  for  the  semester.  These  checks 
could  then  be  used  by  them  towards  the  pur- 


shop.  For  example,  twenty-four  orders  for 
toy  milk  wagons  were  received  by  a  class  of 
twenty-four  boys.  Then  instead  of  making 
twenty-four  toy  milk  wagons  wo  doubled  the 


Cleveland.   Ohio 

THE     WILLSON      JUNIOR     BANK 

Pay  to  the 
order  of 

_192 

P 

_  Point s_ 

Instructor                                                                Clerk 

points  carved 


chasing  of  any  of  the  toys  that  were  put  on 
sale ;  a  certain  mmiber  of  points  required  for  the 
purchase  of  different  toys. 

This  plan  was  made  possible  by  adding  on  to 
the  nimiber  of  orders  received  an  additional 
number  equal  to  the  number  of  boys  in  the 


number  and  made  forty-eight  of  them.  The 
price  that  was  figured  on  for  the  twenty-four 
orders  would  more  than  cover  the  cost  of  ma- 
terial for  the  other  twenty-four  articles  that 
the  boys  would  be  able  to  buy  with  their 
earned  checks. 


C'HAPTKl?   II 
('oLOUiN(i  Toys 


10.  Sanitation  Emphasized.— All  application  of 
color  to  toys  should  carry  with  it  a  reahzation 
tliat  toys  are  meant  primarily  for  children  and 
that  all  paints  should  therefore  be  free  from 
poisonous  compounds. 

All  paints  used  should  be  of  good  quality  so 
that  it  will  not  come  off  easily  to  discolor  the 
liands  or  tongues  of  children  who  cannot  resist 
the  temptation  of  sticking  everything  possible 
into  their  mouths. 

11.  Preparation  of  Surfaces. — Wooden  toys 
may  be  finished  qviite  bright  and  in  various 
colors. 

Before  applying  the  color  it  is  absolutely 
necessaiy  that  every  part  of  the  toy  has  been 
thoroly  sanded.  Where  sanding  is  done  by 
machine,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  sand  the 
wood  too  much.  Many  difficulties  may  arise 
from  too  much  as  well  as  from  too  little  sanding. 
In  hand  sanding,  the  use  of  ablock2j^"x33^", 
to  which  is  glued  a  piece  of  cork,  is  recommended. 


12.    Application  of  Water  Colors. — Toys  may  be 

colored  by  the  use  of  different  materials  and  by 
various  methods.  Kalsomine  colors,  opaque 
water  colors,  variously  knowTi  as  show  card 
colors,  liquid  tempera,  and  letterine, — all  come 
imder  the  heading  of  water  colors.  All  but  the 
kalsomine  may  be  obtained  in  small  jars  and 
ready  for  use.  Kalsomine  colors  come  in  powder 
form  in  various  colors  and  may  easily  be  pre- 
pared by  mixing  with  water  and  a  little  glue  to 
bind  the  parts  together.  They  are  much 
cheaper  than  the  ordinary  forms  of  transparent 
and  opaque  water  colors.  They  may  be  applied 
with  the  ordinary  water  color  brushes. 

After  a  coat  of  water  color  has  been  applied 
to  the  toy,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remove  the 
rough  parts  with  very  fine  sand  paper.  Care 
should  be  taken  not  to  "cut  thru"  when  sanding. 

To  preserve  and  protect  the  water  color  on 
the  toy  a  coat  of  white  shellac  may  be  applied. 
If  a  more  durable  finish  is  desired  a  coat  of 
good  clear  varnish  over  the  shellac;  will  .serve  the 
purpose. 


21 


ADVANCED   TOY  MAKING 


13.  Analine  Water  Stains.— For  general  finish- 
ing of  toys  analine  water  stains  will  produce 
excellent  results.  They  are  known  for  their 
ability  to  penetrate  the  wood  deeply  and  the 
ease  with  which  any  shade  can  be  produced. 
Water  stain  raises  the  grain  of  the  wood  more 
than  any  other.  This  makes  it  necesary  to 
sandpaper  down  the  raised  grain  until  smooth 
and  then  proceed  with  the  shellacking  and 
varnishing  until  the  desired  results  are  ob- 
tained. 

In  preparing  analine  water  stains,  only  ana- 
lines  that  are  soluble  in  water  are  used.  Place 
an  ounce  of  the  analine  to  a  quart  of  hot  or 
boiling  water,  pouring  the  water  over  the  dye- 
stuff  and  stirring  meanwhile  with  a  wooden 
paddle  or  stick.  Soft  water  is  the  best.  In 
about  an  hour  the  dye  may  be  filtered  thru  a 
piece  of  fine  woven  cloth.  As  metal  is  apt  to 
discolor  the  dye,  it  is  better  to  use  a  glass  con- 
tainer. If  the  prepared  solution  is  too  strong 
it  may  be  diluted  in  more  water.  Use  hot 
water  for  diluting  the  stain. 

The  work  with  water  stain  must  be  done 
quickly  in  order  to  obtain  a  uniform  coloring 
on  the  surface.    Water  stains  are  used  a  great 


deal  where  the  dipping  process  is  employed  in 
the  finishing  of  toys.  A  hot  dipping  stain  is 
preferable  to  a  cold  dipping  stain,  first,  because 
it  penetrates  more  readily  and  second,  because 
it  dries  quicker. 

14.  Formulas  for  Analine  Water  Stains.— 
(Stock  Solutions). 

Red:  Rose  benzol  five  parts,  water  ten  parts. 

Rose  Red:  Dissolve  3  oz.  Rose  Bengal  in  5 
pints  of  water. 

Blm:  (a)  Dissolve  1  oz.  of  the  best  indigo 
carmine  in  8  oz.  of  water,  (b)  Prussian  blue 
dissolved  in  water. 

Dark  Blue:  Dissolve  3  oz.  Bengal  blue  in  3^ 
pints  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  and  filter  the 
fluid  in  ten  minutes  time. 

Green:  Mix  Prussian  blue  and  raw  sienna  in 
such  proportions  as  will  give  the  desired  color. 
Mix  in  water. 

Brown:  Dissolve  3  oz.  of  Bismark  brown  in 
1-2  gal.  of  water. 

Yellow:  Auramine  4  parts,  sulphate  of  soda 
10  parts,  mixed  in  water. 

Black:  Nigrosine  black,  four  ounces,  dis- 
solved in  one  gallon  of  boiling  water. 

When  wanted  for  use,  these  analines  may  be 


COLORING  TOYS 


23 


diluted  with  water.  The  rule  is,  an  ounce  of 
anahne  to  the  gallon  of  water  to  form  a  workhig 
stain.  Or  to  a  pint  of  the  stock  solution,  as 
it  is  called,  you  may  add  three  pints  of  water. 

15.  Oil  Stains. — It  will  be  found  that  quicker 
work  can  be  done  with  oil  stain  than  with  water 
colors.  For  that  reason,  oil  stains  are  also 
used  a  great  deal  as  a  dipping  stain.  In  prepar- 
ing oil  stains,  the  best  mineral  or  earth  pig- 
ments to  dissolve  with  turpentine  are  Van  Dyke 
browTi,  chrome  green,  burnt  and  raw  sienna,  and 
lamp  black. 

16.  Shellackiiig. — There  are  two  kinds  of  shel- 
lac, oi'ange  and  white.  The  wliite  shellac  is 
orange  shellac  that  has  been  bleached.  The 
purpose  of  shellac  as  commonly  understood  is 
to  give  a  quick  coat  over  the  stain.  The  thin 
coat  formed  serves  as  a  protector  for  the  stain 
and  also  as  an  undercoater  for  the  following  coat 
of  varnish.  In  this  way  at  least  one  coat  of 
varnish  is  eliminated  and  a  great  deal  of  time 
saved  because  the  shellac  dries  within  a  few 
minutes.    To  thin  shellac  use  denatured  alcohol. 

On  cheaper  toys  a  coat  of  shellac  only  may  be 
used  as  a  covering  for  the  color  stain.  If  orange 
shellac  is  used  it  will  be  found  that  it  effects 


the  color  of  the  stain  used.  White  shellac  also 
produces  a  slight  change  in  color  and  for  this 
reason  many  working  with  toys  will  use  a  good 
clear  varnish  instead. 

17.  Varnishing.— Two  or  three  coats  of  varn- 
ish will  produce  a  very  durable  finish.  The  first 
coat  of  varnish  ought  not  be  quite  as  hea\'y  as 
the  succeeding  coats.  If  the  varnish  is  of  extra 
heavy  body  it  should  be  reduced  slightly  for  the 
first  coat.  The  best  varnish  reducer  is  thin 
varnish.  To  prepare  this  redu(!er,  take  one  pai't 
varnish  (the  same  varnish  to  be  reduced),  and 
two  parts  of  turpentine.  Shake  these  together 
well  and  let  stand  twenty-four  hours  before 
using.  This  will  reduce  the  consistency  of  the 
varnish  without  tearing  down  the  body  as  pure 
turpentine  would.  The  first  coat  of  varnish 
should  be  allowed  to  dry  thoroly  before  the 
second  coat  is  appUed. 

Oil  varnishes  made  from  good  hard  gums, 
pure  Unseed  oil,  and  turpentine,  are  the  most 
valuable.  In  using  turpentine  to  thin  varnish 
care  should  be  taken  that  adulterated  turpen- 
tine is  not  used.  To  play  the  game  safe  it  is 
advisable  to  use  a  little  benzine,  for  it  will  not 
injure  the  varnish,  but  will  evaporate  entirely, 


24 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


and  not  flatten  the  varnish  as  turpentine  does. 

18.  Points  on  Varnishing. — (1)  The  less  varn- 
ish is  worked  under  the  brush  the  better  its 
luster.  (2)  Use  clean  brush  and  pot,  and  clean 
varnish.  See  that  the  surface  is  clean  before 
beginning  to  varnish.  (3)  Allow  a  coat  of 
varnish  plenty  of  time  for  drying  until  it  be- 
comes hard. 

19.  Colored  Varnish. — Colored  varnish  is  that 
in  which  a  proportion  of  Aarnish  is  added  to  the 
pigment  and  thiimed.  The  base  is  usually  an 
earth  color  such  as  ochre,  sieima,  venitian  red. 
Van  Dyke  brown,  umber,  lamp  black,  etc. 

With  this  the  work  can  be  done  in  one  coat. 
This  method  of  finishing  is  usually  employed 
on  the  cheaper  class  of  toys  where  it  isn't 
advisable  to  apply  an  expensive  finish. 

20.  Another  Suggestion  for  Finishing. — Tint  a 
gallon  of  benzine  or  gasoline  with  chrome  green, 
chrome  yellow,  and  vermihon,  ground  in  Japan 
until  the  desired  shade  is  obtained.  This 
formulae  is  especially  good  for  dipping  purposes. 

21.  Use  of  Paint. — Although  paint  can  be 
bought  ready  prepared  and  in  any  color,  as  has 
been  stated,  it  is  advisable  to  have  the  students 


mix  their  own  colors  and  choose  tlieir  own  color 
scheme. 

22.  Ingredients  of  good  Paint. — The  best 
paints  are  usually  made  by  mixing  together 
white  lead,  linseed  oil,  pigment  of  the  desired 
color  (colors  ground  in  oil),  and  a  drier. 

Wliile  white  lead  is  sufficient  as  the  pigment 
for  white  paint,  a  better  result  is  obtained  by 
mixing  zinc  oxide  with  the  white  lead.  These 
two  substances  have  the  convenient  property 
of  balancing  each  other's  disadvantages.  For 
instance,  zinc  oxide  has  a  tendency  to  crack  and 
to  peal,  which  is  overcome  by  the  tougher 
coating  formed  by  the  white  lead.  Again,  when 
white  lead  is  exposed  to  hght  and  weathering,  it 
becomes  chalky,  which  fault  is  remedied  by  the 
property  possessed  by  zinc  oxide,  of  remaining 
hard. 

The  linseed  oil  used  is  obtained  from  flaxseed 
by  pressing  the  thoroly  ground  seed.  About 
twenty-three  gallons  of  oil  can  be  obtained  from 
one  bushel  of  the  seed.  By  boiling  the  oil  with 
lead  oxide  or  manganese  oxide  it  can  take  more 
oxygen  from  the  air,  and  thereby  its  drying 
powers  are  increased. 

Driers  are   substances   that   absorb   oxygen 


COLORING  TOYS 


from  the  air  and  give  part  of  it  to  the  oil.  The 
raw  linseed  oil  absorbs  the  oxygen  from  the  air 
very  slowly,  but  the  addition  of  turpentine  is  a 
great  aid  in  overcoming  this  defect. 

To  insure  the  best  results  in  painting,  one 
must  first  consider  the  kind  and  condition  of  the 
surface  to  be  painted,  and  to  what  use  the  toy 
will  be  put ;  then  decide  on  the  proper  composi- 
tion and  consistency  of  the  paint. 

23.  Application  of  Paint. — In  appljang  the 
paint  to  the  toy  the  first  coat  should  be  thinned. 
This  will  act  as  a  primer  or  undercoat  for  the 
succeeding  coats  of  paint.  Care  should  be  taken 
that  plenty  of  time  is  allowed  between  coats 
for  the  paint  to  dry  thoroly.  Three  coats  of 
paint  will  produce  a  good  finish. 

24.  Preparation  of  surface.^All  woodwork 
must  be  sanded  and  thoroly  dry  before  any 
paint  is  apphed.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see 
that  all  knots  and  sappy  streaks  shall  be  covered 
with  a  coat  of  orange  shellac.  Then  apply  the 
first  coat. 

After  the  priming  coat  of  paint  is  thoroly 
dry,  putty  up  all  knot  holes,  dents,  cracks,  and 
other  defects  in  the  surface  with  a  pure  linseed 
oil  putty  composed  of  equal  parts  of  white  lead 


and  whiting.     When  putty  is  dry,  proceed  with 
the  other  coats. 

25.  Tinting  Materials. — Formulas  for  making 
tints  are  to  be  followed  only  in  a  general  way. 
Make  some  allowance  for  .slight  variations  in 
the  strength  and  tone  of  different  makes  of 
colors.  Chromes  and  ochres  vaiy  noticeably. 
Weigh  out  your  color  and  add  it  gradually,  not 
all  at  once,  noting  the  effect  as  you  go.  \Vhen 
you  reach  the  desired  shade,  stop,  regardless  of 
what  the  formula  calls  for.  Turpentine  and  dark 
driers  will  shghtly  alter  shades.  Make  allow- 
ance for  this. 

26.  Mixing  Paints.— Faulty  mixing,  even  with 
the  best  of  materials,  is  not  Ukely  to  make  dur- 
able paint.  The  important  thing  is  to  give  the 
lead  and  oil  a  chance  to  incorporate  themselves 
in  that  close  union  which  they  always  make  if 
allowed  to  do  so.  The  following  directions  give 
best  results.    The  order  is  important. 

(1)  Break  up  the  white  lead  with  a  paddle, 
using  only  enough  oil  to  bring  it  to  the  con- 
sistency of  colors  in  oil. 

(2)  Add  your  colors  for  tinting.  Coloring 
matter  added  after  the  paint  has  been  thinned  is 
likely  to  break  up  in  lumps  which  leave  streaks 


26 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


when  brushed  out. 

(3)  Put  in  drier. 

(4)  Add  remainder  of  oil,  stirring  well. 

(5)  Last  of  all,  put  in  tui-pentine. 
Thinners  help  only  the  flow  of  the  paint 

never  the  quality. 

To  strain  paint  thru  cheese  cloth  before 
using  will  be  a  safeguard  against  lumpy  colors 
and  streakiness.  Paint  also  spreads  further  if 
strained. 

27.  Paint  Formulas. — As  most  toys  are  ex- 
posed to  the  weather  a  great  deal,  the  following 
formulas  are  recommended.  These  take  no 
account  of  tinting  materials. 

(a)  Priming  Coat: 

25  pounds  pure  white  lead 
1  gallon  pure  raw  hnseed  oil 
Yl  gallon  pure  turpentine 
\i  pint  drier,  free  from  rosin 

(b)  Body  Coat: 

25  pounds  pure  white  lead 
3/8  gallon  pure  raw  Unseed  oil 
3/8  gallon  pure  tui-pentine 
J4  pint  drier,  free  from  rosin 

(c)  Finishing  Coat: 

25  pounds  pure  white  lead 


1  gallon  pure  raw  linseed  oil 
J<4  pint  pure  turpentine 
y^  pint  drier. 

One  must  exercise  his  own  discretion  in  using 
a  larger  or  smaller  quantity  of  oil  according  to 
whether  the  wood  is  oil  absorbing,  as  white 
pine,  poplar,  and  basswood,  or  less  permeable, 
as  yellow  pine,  cypress,  spruce,  and  hemlock. 

28.  Formulas  for  Making  Tinted  Paint. — 
iVny  color  or  tint  may  be  obtained  by  varying 
the  addition  of  tinting  colors.  These  tinting 
colors  are  called  "colors  in  oil."  The  colors 
should  be  added  to  the  white  lead  before  the 
paint  is  thiimed. 

To  twenty-five  pounds  of  white  lead  ground 
in  oil  add  colors  in  oil  as  follows : 
Medium  Blue  Slate  3^2  oz.  lamp  black 


Gray  Blue . 


Dark  Drab. 


34  oz.  lamp  black 

1  oz.  Prussian  blue 

yi  oz.  medium  chrome  green 


5  lbs.  French  ochre 
Y2  lb.  lamp  black 
Va  lb.  Venitian  red 


COLORING  TOYS 


27 


Dark  Slate . 


2  oz.  lamp  black 

3  oz.  mediuni   chrome 


Dark  Lilac 1  oz.  lamp  black 

5  oz.  Venitian  red 


Lilac . 


}/2  OZ.  lamp  black 

IV2  oz.  Venitian  red 

Forest  Green lYi  oz.  lamp  black 

8  lbs.  light  green 
5  oz.  medium  chrome  yellow- 
Buff \)/2  lb.  French  ochre 

3/8  oz.  Venitian  Red 

Cream 5  oz.  French  ochre 

Sea  Green 3/8  oz.  lamp  black 

J4  oz.  medium  chrome 

green 
1 J4    oz.    medium    chrome 
yellow 
Where  tinting  colors  are  used  in  sufficiently 
large  quantities  to  alter  the  consistency  of  the 
paint,  add  one-half  as  much  linseed  oil  and 
turpentine,    by    weight,    as    you    add    tinting 
material. 


29.  Enameling. — When  using  enamel  as  a 
finish  for  toys,  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
surface  of  the  toy  is  in  proper  condition.  To 
obtain  good  results  proceed  as  follows:  Give  the 
wood  a  coat  of  shellac.  Sand  lightly  and  dust. 
The  following  coat  should  consist  of  part  of 
white  paint  and  one  part  of  the  enamel  to  be 
used.  This  coat  should  be  slightly  tinted  with 
the  finishing  color,  if  the  finishing  coat  is  not 
white,  .\llow  twenty-four  hours  for  drying 
thoroly;  then  sand  with  No.  00  sand  paper. 
Next  apply  a  coat  of  enamel  of  the  color  desired 
for  the  finished  work.  (Enamels  may  be  tinted 
with  colors  ground  in  oil.) 

Should  the  enamel  not  work  freely,  add  a 
spoonful  of  benzine  to  a  gallon  of  enamel.  Tur- 
pentine may  also  be  used  as  a  thirmer  for 
enamel. 

A  better  finish  of  enamel  consists  of  two  coats 
of  paint  before  applying  the  enamel.  This  gives 
it  a  stronger  body  and  of  course  makes  it  more 
durable. 

Because  of  its  durability  and  for  sanitaiy 
reasons  enamel  is  the  most  desirable  finish  for 
toys.  Its  glossy  finish  is  attractive  and  \e\j 
appealing  to  children. 


28 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


30.  The  Dipping  Method. — When  a  considera- 
ble quantity  of  toys  is  to  be  finished,  the  prob- 
lem to  be  faced  will  be  the  cost  of  application  of 
the  paint  rather  than  the  cost  of  the  paint 
itself.  The  dipping  process,  (immersing  the 
material  to  be  covered)  is  found  to  be  the  most 
successful,  especially  in  toy  making,  where  so 
many  small  parts  are  used. 

Many  of  the  small  pieces  made  can  be  sub- 
jected to  the  dipping  process  at  quite  a  saving 
of  time  and  labor,  with  probably  better  results 
than  where  the  application  of  paint  or  stain  is 
done  with  a  brush. 

The  success  of  the  dipping  process  depends  on 
the  arrangement  adopted  for  holding  the  toys 
while  the  actual  dipping  is  done  and  while  they 
are  drying.  Here  the  exercise  of  a  little  ingenu- 
ity on  the  part  of  the  students  and  teacher,  will 
overcome  most  difficulties. 

Supposing  that  a  number  of  checkers,  or 
handles,  or  small  wheels  are  to  be  stained.  A 
dipping  frame  as  shown  in  Fig.  8  could  very 
easily  be  prepared.  You  will  notice  the  screen 
tray  (which  is  removable),  and  the  tin  sheet 
which  slopes  towards  the  container.  The  small 
pieces  to  be  stained  can  be  handled  in  wire  bas- 


kets with  mesh  just  small  enough  so  that  the 
pieces  will  not  fall  thru. 

The  wire  basket  is  then  immersed  in  the  con- 
tainer and  worked  up  and  down,  so  that  the 
liquid  will  penetrate  and  touch  all  pieces.  It 
is  then  pulled  up  and  swung  over  the  screen 
tray,  where  the  contents  of  the  wire  basket  is 
dumped.  Here,  the  superfluous  paint  will  drip 
off  on  the  tin  sheet,  which,  because  of  its  slope, 
will  cause  the  superfluous  paint  to  flow  back 
in  to  the  container.  Fig.  9  shows  the  dipping 
frame  in  use. 

The  screen  tray  can  be  removed  and  placed  in 
a  rack  to  allow  for  further  drying.  Several 
trays  could  then  be  made  and  a  rack  to  hold  them 
could  very  easily  be  constructed. 

The  paint  used  for  dipping  purposes  must  so 
be  prepared  that  too  much  does  not  run  off  or 
too  much  stay  on,  for  this  is  surely  one  way  to 
spoil  the  work.  It  should  be  thinned  to  the 
right  consistency  and  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  thinners  used  are  of  the  best  quality. 

Where  larger  pieces  of  work  are  to  be  dipped, 
wire  attachments  could  be  devised  and  each 
part  hung  separately  over  the  dipping  frame 
until  ready  to  be  placed  in  a  rack.    If  the  wire 


Kentoya/i/e  7/-a 


r/VfsA  -^/-e  <^A-f/y 


Container 


Cfo. 


Fig.  S.     Dippins  frame 


Fig.  9.    Using  the  dipi)ing  frame 


COLORING  TOY! 


31 


attachment  forms  a  hook  on  one  end,  it  will  be 
possible  to  hang  up  the  toy  imtil  drained  and 
dried.  In  removing  the  toy  from  the  paint  it 
should  be  drawTi  out  very  slowly  so  that  the 
surface  of  the  paint  may  be  left  as  smooth  as 
possible. 

Where  one  desires  line  effects  on  toys,  these 
may  be  lined  in  afterwards  with  a  small  size 
striping  brush  or  sign  painter's  pencil. 

31.  Polishing  by  Tumbling. — Excellent  results 
in  poUshing  large  quantities  of  small  pieces, 
may  be  obtained  by  tumbhng.  The  material 
to  be  polished  should  be  thoroly  dry.  The 
parts  are  then  placed  in  a  tumbler  as  shown  in 
Fig.  10.  Cut  up  paraffine  wax  into  small  pieces, 
using  about  one-fourth  pound  to  each  tumbler 
full  of  toys.  Allow  these  to  tumble  several 
hours.  This  will  distribute  the  wax  evenly  over 
the  parts  and  produce  a  poUshed  surface. 

The  tumbler  as  sho\vn  in  Fig.  10  is  turned  by 
hand,  altho  it  could  very  easily  be  placed  in  a 
lathe,  where  one  is  available. 

32.  Care  of  Brushes. — A  suitable  place  should 
be  provided  for  brushes  that  are  not  in  use.  A 
tin-Uned  keeper  is  recommended.  Brushes 
should  be  suspended  so  that  their  bristles  will 


not  touch  the  bottom  of  the  keeper,  and  have  the 
liquid  in  which  they  are  kept  come  well  up  over 
the  bristles,  so  that  none  of  the  paint  or  varnish 
may  dry  in  the  butt  of  the  brush. 

33.  Paint  Application  by  Means  of  Compressed 
Air.— In  recent  years,  great  advancement  has 
been  made  in  the  appUcation  of  paint  by  means 
of  compressed  air.  The  early  use  of  pneumatic 
painting  equipment  was  confined  almost  ex- 
clusively to  the  application  of  finishing  materials 
such  as  japans,  enamels,  lacquers,  varnishes, 
etc.,  on  manufactured  products.  But  in  the 
past  few  years  improvements  have  been  made 
which  eliminate  all  of  the  difficulties  originally 
experienced  and  make  possible  the  use  of  this 
method  for  interior  and  exterior  painting,  such 
as  buildings,  ships,  etc. ;  and  at  present,  a  large 
portion  of  factory  maintenance  work  is  done  in 
this  maimer.  Excessive  fumes  have  been 
eliminated  and  all  materials  can  be  applied 
without  removing  the  volatile  thinners,  solvents, 
binders,  etc.,  thru  air  reduction.  This  is 
brought  about  thru  the  use  of  low  pressure  and 
the  perfection  of  ingenious  patent  nozzles  and 
other  improvements. 


^' 


x^ 


-/6"- 


-/6f- 


.^ 


t^^^ 

/^:jji- 


W(f 


-^-^ 


-££- 


ru- 


TUMBLER 


Fig.  10.    Tumbler  for  jjolishing  small  pieces 


COLORING   TOYS 


33 


34.  Uses  of  Pneumatic  Sprayers. — Pneumatic 
paint  sprayers,  or  air  brushes,  are  extensively 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  toys,  furniture, 
automobile  bodies,  sewing  machines,  telephones, 
electrical  equipment;  in  fact,  very  nearly  all 
manufactured  products,   as  -uell  as  on   ships, 

(  structural   steel   and   iron   work,    bridges   and 

buildings. 

The  speed  of  the  air  brush  is  very  great  com- 
pared with  hand-brush  work.  Usually,  an  air- 
brush operator  will  accomplish  as  much  in  one 
hour  as  a  hand  or  bristle-brush  worker  will  in 
one  day;  and  it  is  possible  to  obtain  an  even 
coating,  free  from  sags,  runs  or  brush-marks 
and  bettter  results  are  obtained  than  with  the 
hand  brush  method.  A  film  of  paint  can  be 
appUed  in  one  operation  equal  to  two  hand- 
brush  coats,  as  it  is  not  necessary  to  reduce 
paints  by  thinning  as  much  for  air  bi-ush  apph- 
cation,  in  a  great  many  instances,  as  is  the  usual 
practice  for  hand-brushing.  The  air  sprayer 
can  also  reach  places  inaccessible  to  the  hand 
brush,  and  a  perfect  coat  can  be  appUed  over 
rough,   uneven   surfaces,   which   could   not   be 

I         obtained  by  hand-brushing. 

I  In  considering  penumatic  painting  equipment. 


the  most  important  thing  to  be  kept  in  mind  is 
the  proper  application  of  materials.  This  can 
be  successfully  accomplished  only  th™  the  use 
of  compressed  air  at  low  pressures.  By  this  is 
meant  using  only  sufficient  main-line  air  to  lay 
the  paint,  enamel,  varnish  or  whate\'er  finish 
may  be  used,  on  the  object.  Excessive  pressure 
results  in  fumes,  waste  of  material  and  air  reduc- 
tion taking  place.  By  air  reduction  is  meant 
the  removal  of  the  more  volatile  solvents,  thin- 
ners, binders,  etc.,  thru  evaporation,  and  the 
material  thus  loses  its  adherent  and  coherent 
properties. 

Both  types  of  air-brush  equipment  illustrated 
here  require  three  cubic  feet  of  air  per  minute 
to  operate  and  the  pressure  necessary  depends 
on  the  density,  consistency  or  -\dscosity  of  the 
material  used.  For  example,  undercoaters, 
japans,  etc.;  require  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
pounds  of  pressure  to  apply  perfectly;  while 
enamels  and  varnishes  take  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-five  pounds.  Water  stains  require  about 
five  pounds  of  pressure. 

35.  Construction  of  Pneumatic  Painting  Outfit. — 
A  pneumatic  painting  outfit  for  finishing  work 
consists  essentially  of  an  air  biiish,  either  of  the 


34 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


attached-container  type  or  the  gun-type  with 
separate  paint  tank,  and  a  small  compressor  of 
sufficient  capacity  to  operate  the  air  brush, 
which 'can  be  belt-driven  from  shafting  or  direct 
connected.  An  exhaust  hood  with  fan,  for  the 
removal  of  fumes,  is  advisable  where  the  opera- 
tion is  reasonably  continuous  and  especially 
where  lacquers  are  used.  The  paint,  ready  for 
appUcation,  is  poured  into  the  tank;  and  the 
compressed  air  line  leads  to  the  tank  with  a 
branch  hne  for  air  and  paint  from  the  tank  to 
the  nozzle  of  the  gun  type  of  machine ;  while  only 
the  air  line  is  required  with  the  attached- 
container  type. 

The  air  hose  used  is  re"  in  diameter  while 
the  paint  or  fluid  hose  is  the  same  size.  The 
paint  hose  is  made  of  a  special  compound  to 
resist  the  action  of  the  thinners,  solvents,  etc., 
used  in  the  paint;  and  it  is  important  to  have 
this  correct,  so  that  the  hning  will  not  disin- 
tegrate and  clog  the  air  brush  or  gun. 

Fig.  11  shows  a  five-gallon  container  type. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  the  fluid  connection  is 
nearest  the  nozzle  and  that  the  air  connection  is 
at  the  bottom  of  the  grip. 


36.  Special  Attachments  for  Different  Surfaces.  — 
A  cone  nozzle  is  furnished  for  painting  ii'regular 
surfaces  and  a  fan  nozzle  for  wide,  flat  work. 
Adjusting  and  locking  the  nozzle  regulates  the 
degree  of  atomization.  The  jets  of  the  fan 
nozzle  are  depressed  to  prevent  being  knocked 
out  of  alignment.  Final  regidation  of  the  flow 
of  material  is  made  on  the  back  of  the  gun, 
independent  of  the  pressure  on  the  material  con- 
tainer. A  wide  variety  of  adjustment  is  possi- 
ble with  this  positive  regulation. 

The  first  pull  on  the  trigger  gives  air  only, 
which  can  be  used  for  dusting  ahead  of  the 
work;  and  as  the  trigger  is  released,  the  air 
vah-e  closes  last,  which  prevents  clogging  and 
dripping.  When  adjustments  have  been  made 
the  trigger  action  is  the  only  moving  part  of 
the  machine.  Figs.  12  and  13  show  the  five- 
gallon  container  type  in  actual  use. 

37.  Cleaning  Pneumatic  Machines. — It  is  not 
necessaiy  to  take  the  gun  apart  nor  disconnect 
the  hose  to  clean  the  machine.  Thinner  can 
be  nan  thru  the  device  without  loss  by  placing 
a  small  can  of  reducer  of  the  last  material  used 
in  the  machine,  and  forcing  it  thru  in  the  usual 
manner. 


.mnxfi  TOYS 


35 


Fig.  11.    A  fivci-galluu  air  biiiih  > 


38.  Directions  for  Cleaning  Machine. — Close 
right-hand  Air  Valve  and  open  release  valve. 
Unscrew  air  nozzle  a  few  turns.  Obstruct  outlet 
with  thumb  and  pull  trigger.     Spraying  pres- 


sure is  thus  forced  thru  gun  and  fluid  hose  and 
the  material  backed  into  the  container.  It  is 
advisable  frequently  to  run  thinner  thru  the 
machine  as  follows:  (1)  Place  small  can  of  thin- 


36 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


jiiit  .■^prayers 


ner  in  center  of  container  directly  beneath  fluid  again  for  either  cleaning  or  thinning  purposes. 
tube.  (2)  Replace  cover  and  tighten  wing-nuts. 
(3)  Close  left-hand  air  valve  and  open  right- 
hand  air  valve.  Pressure  on  container  will 
force  thinner  thru  the  machine  and  clean 
perfectly  without  loss.  Do  not  use  spraying 
pressure  in  cleaning.    The  thinner  can  be  used 


39.  Directions  for  Operating  Pneumatic  Equip- 
ment.— 

1 .  Attach  main-line  air  hose  to  air  filter. 

2.  Attach  fluid  hose  to  connection  marked 
"Fluid"  on  tank  and  to  the  front  connection 
near  air  nozzle  on  hand-piece. 


COLORING  TOYS 


37 


-Iff' 

^^^^^^^^    >     ■HMiBii 

K 

1 

Fig.  13.    A  five-gallon  outfit  in  actual  use 


3.  Attach  air  hose  to  connection  marked 
"Air"  on  cover  and  to  the  handle  connection  on 
hand-piece. 

4.  Thoroly  mix  and  strain  material  so  that 
it  is  entirely  free  from  skins,  lumps,  and  foreign 
materials. 


5.  Tighten  wing-nuts  until  paint  container 
is  air-tight. 

6.  See  that  release  valve  is  closed.  Then 
open  right-hand  air  valve,  turn  fluid-pressure 
regulator  until  gage  shows  5  lbs.  pressure  in 
container.    Pull  trigger  and  use  fluid  regulator 


38 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


on  gun  to  control  the  flow.    If  material  is  heavy, 
increase  pressure  in  container. 

7.     Open  left-hand  air  valve  and  turn  spray- 


Fig.  14.    Attached  container  type  of  .sprayer 

ing  pressure  regulator  until  sufficient  pressure 
(5  lbs.  to  25  lbs.),  is  obtained  to  lay  the  material 
on. 

8.     Make   final   adjustment   of   the   flow   of 
material  with  fluid  regulator  on  back  of  hand- 


piece and  get  proper  spray  by  adjusting  the  air 
nozzle. 

9.  Spraying  pressure  and  pressure  in  the 
container  depends  upon  the  density  of  the 
material  used  and  the  size  of  the  surface  to  be 
coated.  A  little  experimenting  on  the  part  of 
the  operator  will  determine  the  best  pressure  to 
use.  When  the  fan  nozzle  is  used,  3  to  5  lbs. 
more  pressure  should  be  applied  to  the  material 
container  and  from  5  to  8  lbs.  more  atomizing 
or  spraying  pressure  used. 

Fig.  14  shows  a  complete  attached  container 
which  operates  on  identically  the  same  princi- 
ples as  the  type  showai  in  Fig.  11.  It  consists 
of  a  l}i  pint  container,  reducing  outfit,  com- 
pressor, and  air  tank.  The  13^  pint  container 
as  shown  in  Fig.  15  is  suppHed  complete  with 
two  fluid  tips,  gasket,  agitator  tube,  cup-holder, 
hose  union,  and  six  feet  of  air  hose. 

The  reducing  outfit  in  Fig.  16  consists  of  a 
regulati\'e  valve,  an  air  gage,  and  an  air  filter, 
complete  with  connections  and  fittings.  This 
outfit  is  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  an  even 
low  spraying  pressure. 

Regulated  pressure  is  appUed  to  the  air- 
tight  material   container,   raising   the   coating 


COLORING  TOYS 


39 


^8«S^ 


A. 

ASiimor 

D. 

l-lL,id  post 

t   F. 

I'luid   tube 

G 

SloL-vc  coupling 

H. 

Hose  union 

L. 

Lock   nut 

N. 

Air  nozzle 

P. 

Plunger  valve 

R. 

Fluid  reservoir 

T. 

Fluid  lip 

V. 

Regulating  valve 

Fig. 


A  one  and  one-half  pint  container  and  parts 


material  to  the  nozzle  where  only  .sufficient 
main-line  pressure  is  used  to  lay  the  coating  on. 
The  spraying  pressure  necessarily  depends  on 
the  density,  consistency  and  viscosity  of  the 
material  used. 

For  fine  finishing  work,  where  the  quantity  of 
materials  used  each  day  is  not  great,  or  where 
the  colors  are  changed  frequently,  the  attached 
container  type  is  recommended. 


40.  Preparing  Colors. — The  three  primary  col- 
ors are  red,  blue  and  yellow.  With  the  three 
primary  colors  at  hand,  almost  every  variety  of 
color  desirable  for  ordinary  use  can  be  easily 
prepared.    Fig.  17  shows  a  color  chart. 

Red  mixed  with  yellow  will  result  in  orange. 

Red  mixed  with  blue  will  result  in  purple. 

Yellow  mixed  with  blue  will  result  in  green. 

The    colors    obtained    by    mixing    any    two 


40  ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


primaries  are  called  secondary  colors.     There-  The    colors    obtained    by    mixing    any    two 

for  the  secondary  colors  are  orange,  purple  and  secondaries  are  called  tertiary  colors. 

green.  The   tertiary   colors   are   brown,    oUve   and 

Orange   mixed    with    purple    will    result    in  slate, 

brown.  Of  course  different  tones  of  each  color  can 

Orange  mixed  with  green  will  result  in  olive.  be  made  up  by  mixing  unequal  proportions. 

Purple  mixed  with  green  will  result  in  slate. 


Fig.  16.    Reducing  outfit 


i;;.  17.     Chart  showing  proportions  required  for  standard  colors 


CHAPTER  III 
Common  Woods  Used  in  Toy  Making 


41.  Economy  in  Selecting  Material. — Economic 
use  of  materials  should  be  encouraged  at  all 
times.  Toy  making  offers  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity where  economy  may  be  taught  in  the 
most  practical  way. 

Where  toys  are  to  be  painted,  more  than  one 
kind  of  wood  may  be  used  in  the  same  toy  and 
thereby  using  up  small  pieces  of  wood  that 
would  otherwise  be  called  scrap.  Yet,  it  is  not 
advisable  to  sacrifice  the  strength  and  durability 
of  the  whole  toy  for  the  sake  of  using  up  a 
piece  of  scrap  wood  which  weakens  the  particu- 
lar part  of  the  toy  where  it  is  used.  For  that, 
in  the  long  run,  is  not  economy. 

42.  Qualities  of  Different  Woods  Used.— The 
following  are  some  of  the  common  woods  used 
in  toy  making. 

Maple:  hard,  fine  grained,  compact,  tough, 
used  for  wheels,  axles,  handles,  dowel  rods,  etc. 

Ash:  white,  strong,  open  grained,  easily 
worked;  used  for  bodies  of  coasters,  wheels, 
axles,  oars,  etc. 

Oak:  hard,   firm  and  compact,   strong  and 


durable,  hai'd  to  work . 

Birch:  moderately  hard  and  heavy,  even 
grained ;  difficult  to  split,  but  easily  worked. 

Chestnut:  resembles  oak  in  appearance,  is 
much  softer,  moderately  hard,  course  grained, 
not  strong,  but  durable. 

Cypress:  moderately  hard,  very  fine  and 
close  grained,  virtually  indestructable ;  known 
as  "the  wood  eternal". 

Basswood:  white,  light,  soft,  tough,  closed 
grained,  easily  worked,  not  strong,  but  durable; 
used  for  almost  any  part  of  a  toy  where  much 
strength  is  not  required. 

White  Pine:  very  light,  soft,  close  and 
straight  grained,  inferior;  easy  to  work. 

Yellow  Pine,  yellowish,  grain  noticeable, 
harder  than  white  pine,  stronger. 

Tuhp  (yellow  poplar) :  fight,  soft,  close  and 
straight  grained;  tougher  than  many  woods 
equally  soft,  compact,  not  very  strong  or 
durable,  easily  worked. 

Spruce:  straight  growing,  fight,  straight  and 
even  in  grain,  tough,  elastic,  easy  to  work. 


42 


CHAPTER  IV 
Use  of  Jigs  and  Fixtures 


43.     Value  of  Jigs  and  Fixtures. — The  use    of 

jigs,  fixtures,  and  other  hibor-saving  devices  is 
{  an  important  factor  in  illustrating  industrial 
{  and  practical  apphcations  in  the  school  shop. 
i  It  is  ad\'isable  to  let  each  group  of  boys  work 
out  its  own  jig  or  fixture  for  the  particular  job 
<         they  have  on  hand. 

I  The  three  most  common  forms  of  jigs  are 

I  cutting  jigs,  boring  jigs,  and  assembling  jigs. 
i  The  important  reasons  for  the  use  of  such 
j  devices  are:  (1)  They  illustrate  the  speed  of 
output  in  shop  work.  (2)  They  give  the 
student  a  good  idea  of  machine  operation. 
(3)  They  help  in  making  the  parts  interchange- 
able. (4)  They  offer  an  opportunity  for  getting 
first  hand  information  on  cutting  edge  tools  and 
their  proper  uses.  (5)  They  show  the  boy  the 
value  of  the  use  of  jigs  in  factory  work. 

The  toys  illustrated  in  this  book  have  many 
simple  operations,  such  as  cutting  stock  to 
length,  driUing  holes,  surfacing,  etc.,  that  can 
be  easily  done  by  the  use  of  the  proper  fixtures. 


For  that  reason  toys  are  desirable  projects  to 
be  made  by  the  productive  plan.  Fig.  18  shows 
(he  use  of  a  jig  and  the  miter  box. 

44.  Cutting  Small  Wheels.— A  circle  of  the  de- 
sired size  wheel  may  be  laid  out  on  the  wood 
with  the  aid  of  a  compass,  and  cut  in  the  out- 
line with  a  coping  saw  or  band  saw.  Of  course, 
it  would  take  quite  a  long  time  by  this  method 
to  make  the  small  wheels  in  large  quantities  and 
besides  the  result  would  not  be  as  good  as  when 
the  wheels  are  made  by  machine. 

45.  Turning  Wheels. — Another  way  to  pro- 
duce wheels  is  to  turn  a  cylinder  to  the  required 
diameter,  on  the  turning  lathe.  Then  cut  the 
cyUnder  on  the  circular  saw  into  required 
thicknesses  of  wheels  desired.  This  method  is 
recommended  for  quick  work. 

If  it  is  desired  to  round  the  end  of  wheels  the 
operation  can  be  done  by  leaving  the  cylinder 
in  the  lathe  and  applying  the  broad  side  of  the 
skew  chisel  as  sho\^^^  in  Fig.  83.  The  wheels 
may  then  bo  polished  with  a  clotli  after  they 


■V         jy^ff^^  ^^frh^l^H^^^^^^^^^^^^^B^^^^^B 

^H^^E^v"*^ 

HfeLi^pd  wip 

If 

HH^^^HP^B^L        1^^       1               ^s<'v  >.. 

Fig.  18.    Production  of  toys  by  use  of  jigs 


USE  OF  JIGS  AND  FIXTURE? 


45 


have  been  sanded  and  while  rotating  in  the  hithe 
as  shown  in  Fig.  34.  In  sanding,  use  first  a 
fairly  course  grade  of  sandpaper,  No.  1  or  1}4, 
and  afterwards  a  fine  grade.  No.  0  or  00. 
Before  applying  the  cloth  the  wood  may  be 
varnished  lightly  while  the  lathe  is  not  running, 
taking  care  to  wipe  off  all  the  surplus  varnish. 
The  varnish  will  assist  in  giving  the  surface  a 
fine  pohsh  when  the  cloth  is  appUed.  For 
further  explanations  of  the  use  of  the  turning 
lathe,  see  Sec.  55. 

46.  Use  of  Wheel  Cutter. — Still  another  method 
of  making  small  wheels  is  by  use  of  the  wheel 
cutter  as  shown  in  Fig.  19.  This  wheel  cutter 
may  be  used  in  the  ordinary  bit  brace.  Good 
results  may  be  obtained  where  the  wheels  are 
made  out  of  thin,  soft  wood. 

This  wheel  cutter  is  known  on  the  market  as 
a  leather  washer  cutter.  If  one  cannot  be 
obtained  it  can  easily  be  made  in  the  school 
machine  shop  at  a  small  cost.  Fig.  20  shows  a 
drawing  of  a  wheel  cutter. 

You  will  notice  that  the  blade  can  be  adjusted 
to  cut  any  diameter  desired. 

47.  Use  of  Coping  Saw. — Where  a  band  saw  is 
not    included   in   the   shop   equipment,    many 


articles  such  as  animal  forms  and  small  wheels 

could  very  easily  be  cut  out  with  a  coping  saw. 

A  saw  board,  as  shown  in  Fig.  21  should  be 

fastened  to  a  table  top  with  an  iron  claniji ;  or,  a 


Fig.  19.    Whpfil  outter  in  use 

saw  board  made  to  fasten  in  a  vise  may  also  be 
used. 

When  cutting  out  the  toy  part,  the  coping  saw 
should  be  held  in  a  vertical  position  as  shown 
in   Fig.   22,   and   in  an  up-and-down  motion, 


I 


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■!»  KHll      -b 


fM 


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l@ 


4 


AtJ® 


A  Jig  chine  (Sliop  ^roS/em 


Fig.  20.    Details  of  a  wheel  cutter  which  may  be  made  in  school 


USE  OF  JIGS  AND  FIXTTTRES 


47 


with  short  fast  strokes,  following  tlie  outline 
carefully.  Cut  on  the  line.  Do  not  press  hard 
on  the  saw  for  the  blade  is  very  thin  and  can  vci  y 
easily  be  broken,  but  it  should  last  a  long  time 
if  used  correctly. 
48.     Cutting  Sharp  Comers. — Wlien    cutting   a 


Fig.  21.    Clamping  the  saw  board  to  the  bench 


Fig.  22.    Correct  method  of  holding  coping  saw 

sliarp  turn  in  the  wood  with  the  coping  saw, 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  twist  the  saw  blade 
out  of  shape.  Upon  reaching  the  sharp  turn, 
continue  the  up-and-down  motion,  but  wthout 
doing  any  cutting;  turn  the  wood  very  slowly 
until  you  have  made  the  complete  turn,  then 
continue  with  the  sawing  and  follow  the  rest  of 


48 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


Fig.  23.    Kemoviiig  the  saw-blade 

the  outline  carefully. 

49.  Removing  the  Saw-Blade  from  Frame. — 
To  remove  the  saw-blade  from  the  frame,  place 
the  head  of  the  frame  against  the  table  top  as 
shown  in  Fig.  23.  Pressing  down  on  the  handle 
will  release  the  saw-blade.  When  inserting 
the  blade  into  the  frame  the  same  method  may 


be  followed,  being  careful  that  the  teeth  of  the 
saw-blade  point  toward  the  handle  of  the  frame. 
The  blade  may  be  put  in  the  end  or  the  side 
slots  of  the  frame,  using  the  side  slots  only 
when  the  end  slots  will  not  serve  the  purpose. 

50.  Making  Heavy  Wheels. — In  turning  heav- 
ier wheels  that  are  to  be  used  for  coasters, 
kiddie  cars,  etc.,  the  work  is  done  with  the 
head  stock  only,  the  wood  being  supported  by 
the  screw-center  chuck  or  face  plate. 

In  turning  the  wheel  the  first  step  is  the 
scraping  cut  as  shown  in  Fig.  24.  This  cut  is 
properly  made  with  the  conca\-e  chisel  held  in 
such  a  position  as  to  give  a  light  scraping  cut. 
Care  should  be  exercised  not  to  allow  the  chisel 
to  extend  too  deeply,  otherwise  the  material 
will  chiiJ  with  the  grain. 

After  the  desired  circumference  has  been  ob- 
tained the  surface  should  be  worked  to  the 
desired  form  as  shown  in  Fig.  25.  This  is  ac- 
compUshed  by  using  the  lathe  rest,  set  at  right 
angles  with  the  bed  or  parallel  with  the  face 
plate.  The  illustration  in  Fig.  26  shows  the  use 
of  the  dividers  in  marking  off  the  position  of 
the  various  corrugations  in  the  wheel  that  is 
being  turned.    The  sanding  should  be  done  while 


ISE  OF  JIGS  AND  FIXTURES 


49 


the  wheel  is  in  the  lathe.  Use  first  a  fairly 
course  grade  of  sand  paper  and  afterwards  a 
line  grade,  No.  O  or  00. 

51.  Designs  for  Wheels.— Suggestions  for 
wootlen  toy  wheels  are  shown  in  Fig.  27.  Those 
numbered  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  and  7  are  plain  wooden 
wheels  varying  in  design  only.  No.  8  and  9 
a  re  re-enforced  with  zinc  and  large  iron  washeis. 
Xo.  10  shows  a  segment  of  an  iron  pipe  fitted  in 
the  center  of  the  wheel  to  prevent  wearing 
away  of  material.  No.  11  shows  a  spoke  wheel. 
'I'he  spokes  are  made  of  dowel  rods;  these 
lifting  into  a  hub  that  can  easily  be  turned  out 
on  the  lathe.  No.  13  shows  a  wheel  built  in 
segments  which  is  then  cut  out  on  the  l)an(l 
saw  to  resemble  a  standard  spoke  wheel.  The 
rim  is  1/8"  steel,  fastened  to  spokes  with  very 
small  ri^•ets. 

52.  Cutting  Wheels  on  Band-Saw. — A  circle  of 
the  required  size  wheel  may  be  marked  ofT  on 
the  wood  with  a  compass,  then  cut  in  the  out- 
line on  the  band-saw.  This  method  will  leave 
square  corners  and  will  be  more  or  less  out  of 
truth  with  the  center  of  the  wheel.  To  true  up 
and  smooth  the  outside  of  the  wheel  the  lathe 
attachment  as  shown  in  Fig.  28  can  be  easily 


prepared.  This  attachment  consists  of  a  block  A 
fastened  to  the  lathe  bed  with  a  single  bolt, 
and  a  stop  B  fastened  to  the  upper  face  of  the 
block  A.     The  carriage  C  is  a  loose  piece  the 


Fif?.  24.     MukiiiK  licavy  wheels.    The  scraping  cut 

same  thickness  as  the  stop  B  and  is  provided 
with  a  dowel  rod  to  fit  the  central  hole  in  the 
wheel.  This  dowel  rod  is  so  located  that 
when  the  edge  of  the  carriage  C  is  tight  against 
the  edge  of  the  stop  D,  the  distance  from  the 
center  of  the  dowel  rod  to  the  face  of  the  abra- 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


Fig.  25.    Smoothing  the  side  of  wheel: 


sive  material  on  the  disk,  will  be  equal  to  the 
radius  of  the  finished  wheel. 

The  wood  is  cut  out  on  the  band  saw  a  scant 
1/16"  over-size  in  diameter,  and  is  then  placed 
on  the  dowel  rod  in  the  carriage  C  which  is 
held  flat  on  block  A  while  the  edge  of  the 
blank  is  brought  in  contact  with  the  grinding 
disc  face  by  pushing  the  carriage  forward  with 
the  left  hand  while  the  blank  is  slowly  revolved 
with  the  right.  This  grinding  is  continued  until 
the  edges  of  stop  B  and  carriage  C  will  remain 
in  contact  during  a  complete  revolution  of  the 


wheel  blank.  During  this  grinding  process,  the 
carriage  should  be  moved  back  and  forth  from 
the  edge  to  the  center  of  the  grinding  disc 
so  that  the  wear  on  the  abrasive  material  may 


be  equalized 


Using  dividers  to  mark  for  cuts 


A  similar  device  used  for  chamfering  the  edges 
of  the  blanks  is  also  shown  in  Fig.  28,  as  it 
looks  when  viewed  from  the  front  of  the  lathe. 
The  preceding  description  will  suffice  for  this 
as  the  same  system  of  lettering  has  been  used. 
It  differs  only  in  that  block  A  is  made  to  set  at 
an  angle  of  45  degrees  instead  of  being  level. 


No.  6 


A// 


MSM' 


Fig.  27.    Many  ways  of  making  wheels  for  toys 


333 


J)e:fa//  ^yh'/jee/ 


FO/?  FM/<S//MG 


Fig.  28.    Simple  attachments  which  may  be  made  for  lathe 


USE  OF  JIGS  AND  FIXTURES 


53 


Grinding  discs  may  be  made  either  of  metal 
or  wood.  Metal  is  preferable  but  a  hardwood 
disc  fastened  to  a  metal  face  plate  will  answer 
very  well.  There  are  many  methods  of  fasten- 
ing the  abrasing  material  to  the  disc  but  the 
most  convenient  way  is  by  the  use  of  stick  belt 
dressing.  The  disc  is  coated  with  dressing  by 
holding  the  stick  against  it  as  it  revolves  and 
the  abrasive  is  applied  before  the  dressing  has 
set.  A  pair  of  dividers  or  trammels  is  used  to 
cut  the  abrasive  material  to  the  same  diameter 
as  the  disc  and  it  should  be  warmed  on  the 
uncoated  side  before  it  is  applied.  It  sticks 
tightly    to    the    disc    but    is    easily    I'emoved 


and    replaced    witli    fivsli    material    in    a    few 
minutes. 

53.  Boring  Holes  in  Wheels. — The  center  holes 
in  wheels  may  be  bored  with  bit  and  brace,  but 
better  results  are  obtained  if  the  holes  are  bored 
in  the  lathe.  A  drill  chuck  fitted  to  the  live 
spindle  and  a  driUing  pad  for  the  tail  stock 
spindle  will  be  required  to  do  this  job  efficiently. 
The  tail  stock  is  locked  fast  and  the  wheel  to  be 
drilled  is  placed  against  the  drilling  pad  and 
fed  up  to  the  revolving  bit  by  turning  the  tail 
spindle  feed  wheel.  This  method  will  produce 
a  cleaner  hole  and  one  that  is  square  with  the 
wheel  face. 


CHAPTER  V 
Operation  of  Woodworking  Machines 


54.     Importance  of  Machine  Operations. — 

A  fair  understanding  of  what  is  the  correct 
position    to    take    at    some    of    the   principal 


knowledge  is  of  special  importance  to  the  one 
engaged  in  toy  making,  where  every  knowledge 
of  use  of  machines,  is  put  to  the  test. 


Fig.  20.     The  roughing  cut 


machines  such  as  the  lathe,  universal  saw,  Sufficient  examples  are  given  to  enable  the 
jointer,  and  sander,  is  very  important  to  the  student  to  arrive  at  a  fair  understanding  of  the 
student  in  the  wood-working  department.   Such     correct  postures. 

54 


OPERATION   OK  WOODWOKKINC   MACTIINK 


55 


55.  Operating  the  Lathe.— The  lathe  is  jierliaps 
one  of  the  most  important  machines  used  in 
toy  making.  It  lends  itself  to  unhmited  varie- 
ties of  work  and  for  that  reason  is  really  inflis- 
pensible  in  the  shop. 

In  Fig.  29  the  student  is  preparing  to  take  the 


roughing  cut  in  turning  a  cylinder.  This 
operation  consists  of  removing  the  corners  of 
the  square  piece  and  is  done  with  the  tool  known 
as  the  gouge. 


After  the  roughing  cut  has  been  taken,  cali- 
pers set  to  the  diameter  desired  will  determine 
the  depth  of   the  next  cut,   sizing  cut.     The 


Fig.  32.     Using  tliR  cut-off  tool 


illustration  in  Fig.  30  shows  the  student  per- 
forming this  operation  with  the  cut-off  tool. 

When  the  correct  dimension  has  been  found, 
the  next  step  in  the  process  of  turning  a  cylinder 
is  the  paring  cut  or  finishing  cut.  Fig.  31.  This 
is  done  with  the  skew  or  bevel  chisel.  A  \'ery  thin 
shaving  is  removed  by  this  operation. 


56 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


The  ends  are  then  cut  by  using  the  cut-off  tool 
as  showTi  in  Fig.  32.  It  is  merely  taking  a 
slice  off  the  end.    If  a  very  thin  slice  is  to  be 


56.  Face  Plate  Turning. — The  preceding  par- 
agraphs describe  the  process  of  turning  when 
the  piece  is  supported  between  the  live  and  the 
dead  centers.  The  processes  shown  in  Figs. 
24,  25  and  26,  illustrate  the  character  of  the 
work  done  with  the  head  stock  only  when  the 


Fig.  33, 

removed,  it  is  usually  made  by  the  long  point  of 
the  skew  chisel.  If  it  is  more  than  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  it  should  be  sized  and  then  removed 
by  the  skew. 

If  it  is  desired  to  round  the  end  of  a  piece  or 
to  produce  a  convex  surface  the  operation  can 
be  done  by  applying  the  broad  side  of  the  skew 
chisel,  as  in  Fig.  33. 


Fig.  34.     Polishing  wood  in  lathe 

piece  is  supported  by  the  screw-center  chuck 
or  face  plate. 

The  first  step  in  face  plate  turning  is  the 


OPERATION  OF  WOODWORKING  MACHINES 


57 


scraping  cut,  Fig.  24.  This  cut.  is  properl.y 
made  with  the  concave  chisel  held  in  such  a 
position  as  to  give  a  light  scraping  cut.  Care 
should  be  exercised  not  to  allow  the  chisel  to 
extend  too  deeply,  otherwise  the  material  will 
chip  with  the  grain.    After  the  desired  circum- 


Fig.  35.    Cutting  off  stock 


Fig.  30.     Fluting  on  cireul.-ir  s;ivv 

ference  has  been  obtained  the  surface  .should 
be  smoothed  with  the  skew  chisel. 

Fig.  25  shows  the  student  modeling  a  rosette, 
using  the  rest,  set  at  right  angles  with  the  bed 
or  parallel  with  the  face  plate.  Prior  to  the 
modeling  a  shearing  cut  should  be  taken  with 


58 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


57.  The  Universal  Saw. — The  operations  that 
can  be  performed  on  the  universal  saw  are  so 
many  that  no  attempt  will  be  made  to  illustrate 
them  all  here.  But  enough  are  given  to  show 
the  characteristic  operations  involved  in  cross- 
cutting,  ripping,  and  dadoing, — the  three  basic 
uses  of  a  circular  saw. 


Fig.  37.     Cutting  with  sjiecial  fence 

the  skew  chisel  to  face  off  the  material  to  an 
even  surface. 

The  illustration  in  Fig.  26  shows  the  use  of 
the  dividers.  The  student  is  marking  off  to  a 
uniform  scale  the  position  of  the  various  corru- 
gations in  the  rosette  he  is  turning. 


Fig.  38.    Grooving,  or  ripping  speci.al  worI< 


OPERATION  OF  WOODWORKING  MACHINES 


59 


It  is  a  more  dangerous  tool  than  the  lathe  and 
the  guard  should  be  kept  over  the  saw  at  all 
times,  except  of  course,  in  dadoing  when  it  can 
not  be  used. 

Figs.  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  illustrate  the  basic 
uses  of  a  circular  saw 


Fig.  39.     CuttiiiK  .segments 


58.  The  Hand  Jointer. — The  great  variety  of 
work  that  can  be  done  on  a  hand  jointer  depends 
very  largely  upon  the  knowledge  and  skill  of 
the  operator.  It  lends  itself  to  so  many  opera- 
tions, that  the  student  gains  much  in  knowledge 
and  efficiency. 


60 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


Fig.  41.     Cutting  bevels  on  jointer 


The  five  operations  shown  in  Figs.  40,  41,  42, 
43  and  44,  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  scope  of  work 
that  is  usually  accomplished  on  a  hand  jointer 
and  show  something  of  the  method  by  which 
the  work  should  be  done. 

The  jointer  is  another  tool  where  the  use  of 
the  guard  should  never  be  omitted. 


59.  The  Sander. — The  sander  is  an  interesting 
machine  in  the  school  shop  for  on  it  considerable 
"forming"  can  be  done  as  with  the  lathe,  altho 
its  prime  use  is  to  make  smooth  or  polish. 

In  Fig.  45  the  boy  at  the  left  is  forming  a  mitre 
while  the  one  on  the  right  is  smoothing  surface. 


Fig.  42.    Jointing  the  edge 


OPERATION  OP  WOODAVOHKING  MACHINES 


Fig.  43.    Rabetting  on  the  jointer 


Fig.  44.     C'litting  niitor  joints 


62 


ADVANCED  TOY  MAKING 


Fig.  45.    The  machine  sander  in  operation 


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JBRTS 


INDEX 


PAGE 

A 

Auto  kar,  Plate  41 104 

Auto  racer,  Plate  9 72 

Auto  Roadster,  Plate  8 71 

B 

Bats,  base  ball,  Plate  54 117 

Bazaars,  toy  sales,  etc 19 

Bed,  doll's,  Plates  22,  23 85,  86 

Boring  holes  in  wheels 53 

Brushes,  care  of 31 

Buffet,  Plate  14 77 

C 

Car,  baby's,  Plate  36 99 

Car,  passenger,  Plate  10 73 

Cars,  auto,  motor,  choo-choo,  Plates  41,  42 104,  105 

Cart,  baby's,  PlateS 66 

Cart,  hay,  Plate  4 67 

Carriage,  dolls,  Plate  17 80 

Chair  &  rocker,  Plate  13 76 

Chair,  baby's,  Plate  47 110 

Checker  board,  Plate  45 108 

Check,  credit,  Fig.  7 20 

Coasters,  Plates  26,  37,  39 89,  101,  103 

Coloring  toys 21 

Sanitation  emphasized 21 

Preparation  of  surfaces 21 

Application  of  water  colors 21 

Analine  water  stains 22 


PAOB 

Formulas  for  analine  water  stains 22 

Oil  stains 23 

Shellacking 23 

Varnishing 23 

Points  on  varnishing 24 

Color  varnish 24 

Use  of  paint 24 

Dipping  method 28,  30 

PoUshing  by  tumbling 31 

Paint  application  hy  compressed  air 31 

Colors,  preparing 39 

Color  chart.  Fig.  17 41 

Contents,  Table  of 5 

Coping  saw,  use  of 45 

Correlation 7 

Costumer,  child's,  Plate  46 109 

D 

Doll's  house,  Plates  50,  51,  52 113,  114,  115 

Dipping  frame 29 

Drawings  for  toys 63 

Dumb  beU,  Plate  53 116 

E 

Enameling 27 

F 

Foremen,  shop 11 

Fox  &  geese  game,  Plate  1 64 

Furniture,  doll 75,  76,  77 


119 


( l:unc  board,  "Bean  Bag,"  Plate  19. 
( lame  board,  "Fox  &  Geese,"  Plate  1 
(irading  students 


Horse  head,  Plate  5 .     .  . 
Horse  on  wheels,  Plate  6 

House,  doll's.  Plates  50, 


Jigs  &  fixtures 
Jointer,  hand 


Lathe,  oiierating  the. 


Machines,  operating  of  ' 


odworki 


.Application 

Preparation  of  surface 

Tinting  materials 

Mixing 

Formulas 

Formulas  for  tinted  paint .  . 

Enameling 

1  for  shop  organization 

Grouping  students 

Time  clerk 

Tool-room  clerk 

Recording  attendance 

Time-card  rack 

Time  cards 

Grading  students 

Accomphshment  sheet .... 
Preparation  for  shop  work . 


kars,  Plates  27,  28,  29  M.  91 .  -ij       ''"eumatic  equipment . 

Preface 


Productive  work . 


Ring  toss,  Plate  2 

Rocking  chair,  Plate  V-i. 
Rocker,  duck,  Plate  35  . 
Rocker,  ducky  loo,  Plate 
Rock-a-doodlo,  Plate  31 


in  for  shoji 


Pain,  use  of 

Ingredients  of . 


.Sand  box,  Plates  48,  49 Ill,  112 

Sander 60,62 

Saw,  universal 58 

Scooter,  Plate  25 88 

Sleds,  Plates  32, 33 OS,  96 


120 


.Sprayer,  pneumatic  air IU,o.'i,.'i4 

Sprayer,  directions  for  operating 'Mi 

Speedster,  duplex,  Plate  30 93 

Stain,  oil 23 

Stain,  aneline  water 22 

Stilts,  adjustable,  Plate  24 87 

Suggestions  to  teachers 7 

Swing,  chUd's,  Plates  20,  21 83, 84 

T 

Tablefor  doll  house,  Plate  12 75 

Teeter-totter,  Plate  43 106 

Teeter-rocker,  Plate  44 107 

Time  clerk 13 

Time  cards 15 

Tool-room  clerk 13 

Toy  sales 19 

Trailer,  kido-kar,  Plate  7 70 


'ruinblfir,  drawing  of 

Tumbling,  polishing  by 31 , 

V 

Varnishing 

Varnish,  colored 

Varnishing,  points  on 

W 

Wagon,  milk,  Plate  li 

Water  colors 

Wax  polishing 

Wheel-barrow,  toy,  Plate  15 

Wheel-barrow,  horse  design,  Plate  16 

Wheel  cutter 45, 

Wheels,  cutting  small 

Wheels,  designs,  Fig.  27 49, 

Wheels,  turning 

Woods  used  in  toy  making 


43 
51 
43 
42 


University  of  Caiifornia 

SOUTHERN  REGiONAL  LiBRARY  FACiLiTY 

405  Hiigard  Avenue,  Los  Angeles,  CA  90024-1388 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


B     000  003  241 


Unive: 
So\ 


